Exploring Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Quick Birthday Trip to Scotland

After an unforgettable week exploring Iceland, our adventure wasn't quite over yet.

We decided to spend a few days in Scotland to celebrate my husband Reza's 40th birthday. As a huge Scotch whisky enthusiast, there really isn't a better place in the world to celebrate such a milestone.

This wasn't my first trip to Scotland. In fact, I think this was my seventh visit... maybe even more! Scotland has long been one of my favorite countries to explore, and every time I come back, I find another reason to fall in love with it. Between the dramatic landscapes, centuries of history, incredible food, cozy pubs, and genuinely kind people, it feels like a place I could visit over and over again without ever getting tired of it.

Even though this trip was only a few days long, it was the perfect way to end our Iceland adventure. We spent our time wandering the streets of Edinburgh, enjoying a few whisky tastings for Reza's birthday, and soaking up the beautiful summer weather that neither of us expected.

I love adding stopovers like this to larger international trips. A destination that could easily become just a layover turns into a whole new adventure, and this one reminded me exactly why Scotland remains one of my favorite places in the world.

Wild Heather in Scotland

The Flight and Rental

One of my favorite travel hacks is flying Icelandair if you're planning to visit Europe. We booked our flights from Baltimore (BWI) to Glasgow and took advantage of Icelandair's incredible Stopover Program, which lets you spend up to seven days in Iceland on a transatlantic itinerary without paying additional airfare for the stop itself. Instead of simply connecting through Reykjavík, you get to turn your layover into an entirely separate vacation. For us, it was the perfect excuse to spend five days exploring Iceland before continuing on to Scotland.

Another thing I really appreciated was how easy Icelandair made the entire experience. Their app kept all of our flights in one place, made it simple to check in, access our boarding passes, and manage our itinerary throughout the trip. When you're juggling multiple destinations, having everything organized in one app makes traveling so much less stressful.

Glasgow Airport wasn't exactly my favorite part of the journey, and picking up our rental car turned into a bit of an adventure. Driving on the opposite side of the road definitely takes some concentration, especially during those first few miles.

Once we escaped the city, though, everything changed. The drive from Glasgow to the Craigellachie Hotel was absolutely stunning. Rolling green hills, charming villages, and beautiful countryside surrounded us for nearly the entire drive. We found ourselves saying, "Wow," every few minutes. By the time we arrived, any nerves about driving had completely disappeared, and we knew the journey had been well worth it.

View of a distillery while driving to the hotel

The Craigellachie Hotel

If you're planning a whisky trip through Speyside, I honestly can't imagine staying anywhere else.

The drive from Glasgow into the Highlands was spectacular. Rolling green hills slowly gave way to forests, stone villages, and winding roads before we finally arrived in the tiny village of Craigellachie. Nestled in the heart of Speyside, the hotel sits just minutes from some of Scotland's most iconic distilleries, making it the perfect base for exploring whisky country.

What makes The Craigellachie Hotel so special is that it isn't just another luxury hotel. The building dates back to 1893, while the Spey Inn that forms part of the property traces its roots all the way back to 1703 as a historic drovers' inn where travelers, shepherds, and locals would gather to eat, drink, and swap stories. Knowing that people have been sharing drams here for more than 300 years made our stay feel even more special.

From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed by some of the friendliest staff we encountered during our trip. Check-in was effortless, and we were given a quick tour of the property before heading to our room. Every space in the hotel felt thoughtfully designed. Rich tartans, leather chairs, cozy fireplaces, and beautiful Scottish touches created the perfect balance between historic charm and modern luxury. I could have happily spent an entire afternoon wandering the property, from the rose gardens and blooming thistles outside to the inviting lounges inside.

The Craigellachie Hotel

The Quaich Bar

If there is one place you absolutely cannot miss, it's the Quaich Bar.

Named after the traditional Scottish two-handled drinking cup that symbolizes friendship and hospitality, the bar has become one of the world's most celebrated whisky destinations. Walking through the doors feels a little like entering a library dedicated entirely to Scotch. Shelves lined with hundreds upon hundreds of bottles surround the room, and every label seems to tell its own story. The bar is home to more than 700 single malts, with many rare and hard-to-find bottles that whisky lovers dream about trying.

Even as someone who isn't a whisky expert, I loved the experience. The bartenders were incredibly knowledgeable and took the time to learn what I normally enjoy before recommending a few drams that perfectly matched my taste. Reza was in heaven and probably would have stayed for several more hours if I hadn't eventually convinced him it was time for bed.

My biggest tip is to arrive early. The bar isn't very large, and seats fill quickly, especially during the evening.

Dining at the Spey Inn

We also loved dining at the Spey Inn, the hotel's historic restaurant. Beyond serving delicious food, it genuinely felt like the heart of the local community. Locals and travelers gathered together over great meals, and you could easily imagine people doing exactly the same thing centuries ago.

As a vegetarian, I was pleasantly surprised by the variety of options available. Scotland isn't always the easiest destination for vegetarians, but I never felt like an afterthought here. My favorite part of every meal, though, was ending with sticky toffee pudding and a hot cup of tea.

One thing that made me smile throughout our trip was just how dog-friendly Scotland is. The Spey Inn was no exception, and I loved seeing happy pups relaxing alongside their owners while everyone enjoyed dinner.

Breakfast

Breakfast each morning was just as memorable. The dining room was bright, welcoming, and the perfect place to start another day exploring Speyside.

One detail I especially appreciated was that they offered a full Scottish breakfast for vegetarians. It's something you don't see very often, and it made me feel like just as much care had gone into the vegetarian menu as the traditional one.

Between the beautiful rooms, exceptional hospitality, incredible food, and what is arguably one of the best whisky bars in the world, The Craigellachie Hotel easily earned a 10 out of 10 from us. The next time we visit Speyside, there's no question where we'll be staying.

Craigellachie Cars

If you're planning to visit multiple distilleries in Speyside, do yourself a favor and hire a driver. Not only does it mean everyone gets to enjoy the tastings, but you can also relax and take in the incredible scenery without worrying about navigating the winding Highland roads.

We booked with Craigellachie Cars, and I honestly can't recommend them enough. Communication before our trip was fantastic, booking was simple, and every driver we had was friendly, professional, and incredibly knowledgeable. Rather than just driving us from one distillery to the next, they shared stories about the local villages, Speyside's whisky heritage, and Scottish history that we never would have learned on our own.

The vehicles were spotless, always on time, and made the entire experience feel effortless. By the end of the day, it felt less like hiring transportation and more like spending the day with a local guide who genuinely loved sharing their home with visitors.

If we ever return to Speyside, Craigellachie Cars will be one of the first reservations we make.

Glenlivet Distillery

I should probably start with a disclaimer: I'm not really a whisky person. This stop was very much for Reza's 40th birthday, and I figured I'd happily tag along while he enjoyed the tastings.

As it turns out, I ended up loving the experience.

Founded in 1824, Glenlivet holds a special place in Scotch whisky history as one of the first legal distilleries licensed after the Excise Act, helping shape Speyside into the world-famous whisky region it is today. Learning about the history, the craftsmanship, and the generations of tradition gave me a whole new appreciation for what goes into every bottle.

Our guide did an incredible job explaining the entire whisky-making process, from selecting the barley and using the crystal-clear water of Josie's Well to fermentation, distillation, and years of aging in oak casks. The tour struck the perfect balance between history and hands-on learning, making it engaging even for someone who knew very little about whisky beforehand.

One thing I really appreciated was that Glenlivet offers a variety of experiences depending on your interests and budget. Visitors can choose from classic guided distillery tours with tastings, premium tasting experiences featuring older and more exclusive expressions, and even specialized experiences for serious whisky enthusiasts looking to dive deeper into the craft. Whether you're brand new to Scotch or already have a favorite dram, there's likely a tour that's a great fit. Prices vary depending on the experience, but there are options for both casual visitors and dedicated whisky lovers.

The tasting itself was another pleasant surprise. I fully expected to politely sip my samples and hand the rest to Reza, but Glenlivet's whiskies were incredibly smooth and approachable. Even as someone who rarely drinks whisky, I found myself genuinely enjoying several of them.

The distillery grounds are absolutely beautiful as well. The buildings blend modern architecture with the surrounding Highland landscape, the gardens are impeccably maintained, and every detail of the visitor center feels thoughtfully designed. Even if whisky isn't your thing, it's worth visiting simply to appreciate the setting.

Whether you're a lifelong Scotch enthusiast or just curious to learn something new, Glenlivet is an excellent introduction to the world of Speyside whisky.

Glenfiddich Distillery

Our next stop was the iconic Glenfiddich Distillery, and it was easy to see why it's one of the most recognizable names in Scotch whisky.

Family-owned by William Grant & Sons since it was founded in 1887, Glenfiddich remains one of the few major Scotch distilleries that is still independently owned. The distillery itself feels like a small village, with beautiful stone buildings, perfectly manicured grounds, and an impressive campus that has grown over more than a century of whisky making.

One of my favorite parts of the tour was visiting the warehouse where thousands upon thousands of oak casks quietly mature. Photography wasn't allowed inside, but honestly, that's part of what made it feel so special. Standing among barrels that have been aging for decades really puts into perspective just how much patience and craftsmanship go into creating a great Scotch. Some of those casks have been resting there longer than I've been alive!

The guide did an excellent job explaining how different types of oak barrels influence the final flavor of the whisky and why time is one of the most important ingredients in the entire process. Even as someone who doesn't typically drink whisky, I found the production side absolutely fascinating.

The tasting itself was...good! Reza definitely appreciated it more than I did, but that's to be expected since whisky isn't usually my drink of choice. That said, I still enjoyed comparing the different expressions and learning how subtle changes in age and cask type completely transform the flavor profile.

Whether you're a serious whisky enthusiast or simply interested in Scottish history and craftsmanship, Glenfiddich is absolutely worth adding to your itinerary. Between the beautiful grounds, rich history, and behind-the-scenes look at one of Scotland's most famous distilleries, it was a memorable stop on our Speyside adventure.

The Macallan Distillery

Travel Tip: If visiting The Macallan is on your itinerary, make this your first reservation. Tours are released 90 days in advance and fill up incredibly quickly, especially during the summer months. We booked the Through the Agesexperience the morning reservations opened and were so glad we did. We also reserved lunch afterward at the Elchies Brasserie, which I highly recommend.

Without question, visiting The Macallan was the highlight of the trip for Reza.

Craigellachie Cars picked us up in a sleek Audi for the short drive to the estate, and from the moment we turned onto the property, it was obvious this wasn't going to be an ordinary distillery tour.

An Estate Unlike Any Other

The Macallan feels more like a luxury estate than a distillery.

Nestled into the rolling hills of Speyside, the building almost disappears into the landscape thanks to its remarkable grass-covered roof. Opened in 2018, the award-winning distillery was designed to blend seamlessly with the surrounding countryside, creating one of the most architecturally impressive whisky destinations in the world.

Every detail of the property feels intentional. Perfectly manicured gardens surround the visitor center, winding pathways invite you to explore, and Highland cattle graze peacefully nearby, making the estate feel quintessentially Scottish. As someone who absolutely loves gardens and landscaping, I could have spent hours simply wandering the grounds before we even stepped inside.

Through the Ages

We booked the Through the Ages experience, and it exceeded every expectation.

Rather than simply walking through the production process, the tour tells the story of The Macallan's nearly 200-year history and how it became one of the world's most respected single malt whiskies. Founded in 1824, The Macallan has built its reputation on exceptional oak casks, meticulous craftsmanship, and an unwavering commitment to quality. By the end of the tour, it was easy to understand why the name has become synonymous with luxury Scotch.

Our guide was phenomenal. You could tell they genuinely loved sharing the history of the estate, and their passion made the experience engaging whether you were a lifelong whisky collector or, like me, someone who doesn't normally drink whisky.

One thing that surprised me most was how much of whisky's final flavor comes from the cask itself. Learning about the years spent sourcing oak, crafting barrels, seasoning them with sherry, and patiently aging each whisky gave me an entirely new appreciation for the process.

The tasting that followed was beautifully presented and guided without ever feeling intimidating. Even though whisky isn't my drink of choice, I genuinely enjoyed learning how to identify the different aromas and flavors in each expression. Reza, on the other hand, was absolutely in his element.

Lunch at Elchies Brasserie

After our tour, we headed upstairs to the Elchies Brasserie for lunch, and it was the perfect way to end the experience.

The dining room overlooks the estate through enormous floor-to-ceiling windows, offering incredible views across the distillery and surrounding countryside. We lingered over lunch, soaking it all in before reluctantly heading to our next stop.

As a vegetarian, I was thrilled by the menu. Scotland can sometimes be hit or miss when it comes to vegetarian dining, but the options here were creative, beautifully presented, and absolutely delicious. Combined with the views and exceptional service, it became one of my favorite meals of the entire trip.

Final Thoughts

I've visited a lot of breweries, wineries, and distilleries around the world, and The Macallan easily ranks among the best visitor experiences I've ever had.

Even if you don't consider yourself a whisky drinker, I would still recommend visiting. The architecture, the history, the gardens, the hospitality, and the attention to detail create an experience that's about so much more than what's in the glass.

If you're visiting Speyside, don't skip The Macallan. Just make sure you book well in advance—you'll thank yourself later.

Inverness

One downside to booking The Macallan tour in the afternoon? I volunteered to be the designated driver.

After spending the day surrounded by some of Scotland's finest whisky, I had to admire everyone else's tastings while mentally preparing for the hour-long drive from Craigellachie to Inverness. Driving on the left side of the road in the Scottish Highlands is an adventure all by itself. Between the narrow roads, roundabouts, and trying to remember which lane I belonged in, I spent most of the drive gripping the steering wheel just a little tighter than I'd like to admit.

Thankfully, the scenery more than made up for my nerves. Rolling green hills, stone cottages, winding rivers, and sheep that seemed completely unfazed by passing cars made the drive feel quintessentially Scottish.

By the time we arrived in Inverness, I was more than ready to park the car.

We spent the night at Glenuig House B&B, and I couldn't have picked a better place to stay. Our host gave us such a warm Scottish welcome that it immediately felt like home. The room was comfortable, breakfast the next morning was excellent, and the location couldn't have been more convenient for exploring the city on foot.

Often referred to as the Capital of the Highlands, Inverness sits along the banks of the River Ness and has served as an important crossroads for centuries. The city's history stretches back to medieval times, and its strategic location made it the setting for numerous battles, including the events that inspired Shakespeare's Macbeth. Today, it's a vibrant city that perfectly blends Scottish history with a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.

One of my favorite things about Inverness was how walkable it is. Within just a few minutes of leaving our B&B, we found ourselves wandering charming streets lined with restaurants, cozy pubs, and live music pouring out onto the sidewalks. There was such a fun energy in town that evening. Locals and visitors alike were enjoying the warm weather, sharing pints, and listening to traditional Scottish music.

Even though we only spent one night here, Inverness left a lasting impression on me. It's the kind of place where you can slow down, enjoy a leisurely dinner, wander along the River Ness, and soak up the atmosphere before continuing your Highland adventure.

Isle of Skye Tour

One of the biggest reasons we chose to spend a few nights in Inverness was so we could finally visit the Isle of Skye, and it ended up being one of the highlights of our entire Scotland trip.

Rather than renting a car for the day, we booked a guided tour, and I couldn't be happier that we did. Our guide, Nial, was absolutely fantastic. He didn't just drive us from stop to stop—he brought the Highlands to life through stories, local history, Scottish folklore, and plenty of humor along the way.

One of my favorite moments happened completely unexpectedly. Nial pulled out bottles of a traditional Scottish soda for everyone to try before surprising us by playing the bagpipes. Standing in the Highlands listening to live bagpipes was one of those moments that gave me goosebumps. It was such a thoughtful touch and made the day feel incredibly authentic.

The drive itself was just as memorable as the destinations. We stopped to admire the legendary waters of Loch Ness, visited historic castles that have stood watch over Scotland for centuries, and learned about the battles, clans, and people who shaped the Highlands. Every stop seemed to have another fascinating story behind it.

Then we reached the Isle of Skye.

Photos simply don't do it justice.

Towering sea cliffs, dramatic mountains, winding single-track roads, waterfalls spilling into the ocean, and landscapes that looked almost untouched by time surrounded us everywhere we went. It's easy to understand why Skye is considered one of the most beautiful places in Scotland. Around every corner was another view that made us reach for our cameras.

We also enjoyed some fantastic food along the way, making the entire day feel perfectly paced with just the right mix of sightseeing, history, and time to explore on our own.

If you're visiting the Scottish Highlands and only have time for one day trip, I would make it the Isle of Skye without hesitation. Having a knowledgeable local guide transformed what could have been a scenic drive into one of the most memorable experiences of our entire vacation.

Culloden Battlefield

On our drive back to Edinburgh, we made one final stop that had been on my list for years: Culloden Battlefield.

Unlike many historic sites where it's difficult to imagine what once happened there, Culloden has a quietness that makes you stop in your tracks. The battlefield is peaceful today, with open moorland stretching in every direction, but knowing that this was the site of the final battle of the Jacobite Rising in 1746 gives the landscape an entirely different feeling. In less than an hour, more than 1,500 men lost their lives, forever changing the history of Scotland and bringing an end to the Jacobite cause.

Before walking the battlefield, we spent time in the visitor center, which I highly recommend. The exhibits do an incredible job of explaining the political background, the people involved, and the events leading up to the battle. By the time we stepped outside, we had a much deeper appreciation for the significance of what had happened on that very ground.

Walking among the clan memorial stones was the part that stayed with me the most. Each marker represents families who fought and died there, making the history feel deeply personal rather than something you simply read about in a history book.

One small detail made the visit even more memorable. Throughout our entire trip, I had been hoping to find Scotland's national flower, the thistle, still in bloom. We were visiting after the peak flowering season, so I had almost given up. Then, while walking across the battlefield, I spotted a lone purple thistle standing tall among the grass. It felt like such a fitting place to find it, and it became one of my favorite photographs from the entire trip.

Culloden isn't a stop because it's beautiful, although it certainly is. It's a place to slow down, reflect, and better understand an event that shaped Scotland's history. If you have even a passing interest in history, I would absolutely recommend making time for a visit.

Edinburgh

No matter how many times I visit Edinburgh, it never loses its magic.

With its medieval closes, towering castle, centuries-old stone buildings, and musicians playing along the Royal Mile, the city feels like you've stepped onto the set of a movie. Around every corner there's another hidden alleyway, historic pub, or incredible viewpoint waiting to be discovered.

Founded more than a thousand years ago, Edinburgh has served as Scotland's capital since the 15th century. The city is divided into the medieval Old Town and the elegant Georgian New Town, both recognized together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of my favorite things about Edinburgh is how history isn't confined to museums. It's everywhere you look. You walk the same streets once traveled by kings, queens, writers, philosophers, and everyday Scots who helped shape the country's remarkable story.

This visit felt a little livelier than I remembered. We happened to be there during an international rugby weekend, so the pubs were packed, the streets were buzzing, and there was plenty of celebrating that stretched well into the evening. While the city felt a bit busier (and admittedly a little messier) than on previous visits, the energy was contagious, and it was fun seeing so many people enjoying themselves.

Apex Grassmarket Hotel

For this trip, we stayed at the Apex Grassmarket Hotel, and I honestly couldn't have asked for a better location.

When we walked into our room, we were greeted by an unexpected surprise—a perfect view of Edinburgh Castle rising above the city. I don't think either of us expected that, and it immediately became one of my favorite hotel views I've ever had.

The hotel sits in the heart of Grassmarket, one of Edinburgh's oldest neighborhoods. Once a medieval marketplace, Grassmarket has centuries of fascinating history and is now one of the city's liveliest areas, filled with traditional pubs, restaurants, cafés, and independent shops. From the hotel, we could easily walk to the Royal Mile, Victoria Street, Edinburgh Castle, and just about every major attraction without ever needing transportation.

If you're visiting Edinburgh for the first time, I would happily stay here again.

The Kitchin

Without question, one of the highlights of our time in Edinburgh was dinner at The Kitchin.

Reservations opened months before our trip, and we booked as soon as we could. After experiencing it for ourselves, I completely understand why.

Chef Tom Kitchin earned a Michelin star just months after opening the restaurant and has built his reputation around his philosophy of "From Nature to Plate," celebrating Scotland's incredible seasonal ingredients. Every course felt like a work of art, highlighting local produce in ways I never would have imagined.

I chose the Vegetarian Surprise Tasting Menu with the wine pairing, and it was one of the best meals I have ever eaten.

Every dish was beautifully presented, perfectly balanced, and somehow managed to surprise me with flavors I wasn't expecting. The wine pairings elevated each course without overpowering it, and the pacing of the meal encouraged us to slow down and truly enjoy the experience.

One moment that made the evening even more memorable was when Tom Kitchin himself walked through the dining room, stopping to chat with every table. He was warm, gracious, and genuinely interested in hearing about everyone's experience. Those small interactions are what transform an exceptional meal into a memory you'll still be talking about years later.

I've been fortunate enough to eat at some incredible restaurants while traveling, and The Kitchin ranks among my all-time favorites. If you're planning a trip to Edinburgh and enjoy fine dining, this is one reservation I would absolutely prioritize.

What to Do in Edinburgh

One of the things I love most about Edinburgh is that you don't really need an itinerary. Some of my favorite memories have come from simply wandering the city's historic streets and seeing where they lead.

Of course, there are a few places I think every visitor should experience.

Start with Edinburgh Castle. Perched high on Castle Rock, it has watched over the city for centuries and offers incredible views across Edinburgh. Inside, you'll find everything from the Scottish Crown Jewels to centuries of military history. Even after multiple visits to Scotland, I still find myself wanting to go back.

From there, wander down the Royal Mile, which connects the castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Street performers, bagpipers, whisky shops, historic buildings, and hidden alleyways make it one of the most iconic streets in Scotland. Take your time here. Duck into the little closes, browse the local shops, and don't be afraid to wander off the main road—you never know what you'll discover.

One of my favorite streets in the entire city is Victoria Street. With its colorful storefronts, winding curve, and charming cafés, it's one of the most photographed streets in Edinburgh. Many people also believe it helped inspire Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series, and it's easy to see why.

If you have the time, hike up Arthur's Seat for one of the best panoramic views of the city. It's a relatively short climb, and seeing Edinburgh from above is absolutely worth the effort.

For whisky lovers, there are no shortage of fantastic pubs and tasting rooms throughout the city. If whisky isn't your thing, Edinburgh's café scene is equally impressive. Grab a coffee, find a quiet corner, and simply enjoy watching the city come alive around you.

Above all, slow down. Edinburgh isn't a city that's meant to be rushed. It's a place to wander, to get a little lost, to listen to the bagpipes echoing through centuries-old streets, and to appreciate the incredible history around every corner.

Heading Home

Before we knew it, our Scottish adventure had come to an end.

We made the drive back to Glasgow, returned our rental car, and boarded our Icelandair flight home to Baltimore. Looking back, combining Iceland and Scotland into one trip was one of the best travel decisions we've ever made. Iceland amazed us with glaciers, volcanoes, and crystal-clear waters, while Scotland captured our hearts with its rich history, warm hospitality, dramatic landscapes, and unforgettable food.

Even though this was far from my first visit to Scotland, it certainly won't be my last. Every time I return, I discover something new, revisit old favorites, and leave already thinking about when I'll come back.

If you've ever dreamed of exploring Scotland, let this be your sign to go. Wander through ancient castles, spend an afternoon in the Highlands, learn the stories behind Scotland's world-famous whiskies, and don't forget to leave room for a little spontaneity along the way. Some of the best travel memories come from the moments you never planned.

Scotland has a way of staying with you long after you've left. For us, what began as a birthday celebration became another unforgettable adventure, and one that we'll be talking about for many years to come.